Posts Tagged ‘Anphelion Base’

Hello everyone!

Are you ready for another instalment of Air Strip One?  So this particular episode is all about the bulk fuel storage that will be in the centre of the air field.  Surprisingly it was quite easy to make.  It was simply a 15omm diameter piece of PVC pipe used for plumbing.  The tricky bit was cutting it so that it sat flat.  I accomplished this by wrapping a large piece of plastic card around the circumference of the tube, making sure the two ends lined up and the sheet was flat on the surface of the tube.  I then just scribed a line on the tube with a pencil.  I then just grabbed my Dremel and attached a cutting wheel.  It was fiddly, however worth it.  The piece looks good and was pretty straight forward to make.

If anyone has ever seen any sort of bulk hazardous chemical storage they always have a spill barrier around them.  For this I used the excellent barricaded from Quantum Gothic.  I don’t know exactly the story with this company, however they’ve not been open for business for what feels like 2yrs now.  Its very sad, as they have amazing products. As you can see from the pictures, the detailing of the container was pretty straight forward.  I once again used the cut off bolt heads as a final piece of detail.  Other items used were the grab handles off the Leman Russ kit, and some FW brass etched Imperial Eagles.  If you’re into making scenery, grab a few of these, they’re fantastic.

The final picture is roughly how the layout of the base will look.  Two landing pads, the fuel storage and the ground control.  If you remember from the first post of on this table, this is basically a small section of a much larger air field.  Hence why its symmetrical.

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Thats it for now.  Thanks for dropping in.  The next post on this base will be of the finished product!  I’m very pleased with how its turned out, and I’m sure you will be too.

John

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Well, its done.  What a mission it was too.  I have to admit, I’m quite pleased with the finished product.  I don’t know about you, but often when I’m half way through a project I get disheartened because I think its not going to turn out the way I want.  The temptation to not persevere  is high.  On many occasions with this project I was in that place.  However experience has now taught me to keep going.  As they say, when you’re going through hell, don’t stop!

I actually finished this several weeks ago.  In that time, I’ve probably had about 10-12 games on it.  Its loads of fun to play on.  Having actual buildings, not ruins on the table is fun.  It throws up some interesting challenges.  The other unique aspect to playing on this board is that we use the Zone Mortalis rules from Horus Heresy Book 1 when fighting inside the Anphelion Base.  Again, this brings an interesting dimension to the game.  Its not all just woods, craters and ruins.  There are doors, ladders, emplaced weapons, comms relays, firestorm and shrapnel, reaction fire, impassable terrain, difficult and dangerous terrain to negotiate.  Basically, playing on a board with actual intact buildings is a pleasant change.

Also, you’ll notice that this is a 4 x 4 board.  I’m heading down this path for several reasons.  1.  It works for my tournament that I’ll be running shortly.  2.  Its the best size for 1000pt games, which I tend to play more of these days as I feel its more tactical and 3.  Quicker build times.  I’ve actually built another 4 x 4 table which I’m just in the process of finishing off as you read this…  I’ve called it ‘Air Strip One’  You’ll see some pictures shortly.

Ok, enough chit chat.  Here are the pictures.

Behold!

Table 3

Forge World Anphelion Base 1

Forge World Anphelion Base 2

Forge World Anphelion Base 4

Forge World Anphelion Base 5

Forge World Anphelion Base 6

Forge World Anphelion Base 7

Forge World Anphelion Base 8

Forge World Anphelion Base 3

Well folks, there you have it.  One Forge World Anphelion base.  Now, I have some good news, and some bad news.  The good news is this.  I’m trying to get my friend, Aaron, over at Forlorn Hope to come over with his Tyranids so we can have a proper Nid v Guard bash on this table, and of course bring you a battle report.  However he doesn’t get to Brisbane all that much and we had it all planned for last Saturday, however I had to cancel due to another commitment.  So I’m anxious to have that game and do a battle report for you all.  Help me, help you and get Aaron to Brisbane with his Nid so we can have this game.  Fill out the poll below to show your support.

Now to the bad news.  Its almost back to school for me, and that means less painting and modelling, so that means less posting… I’ve still got a few more posts up my sleeve yet, AND I’ve got my tournament to run in March too.  So you’ll definitely be hearing about that.  While we are talking about The Emperor’s Legions.  If you happen to be free on Saturday the 15th of March, feel free to drop into the Holland Park Hotel, Brisbane to check it out.  You’ll see probably the best painted armies from some of the most talented painters around in one place at one time.  All of the players that are attending are super excited and there will be much rivalry and good times had on the day.   It’d be great to see as many of you as possible and put some faces to names.

Ok, until next time thanks for dropping in

John

This post will mostly be about the fabled hairspray technique.  Believe it or not, I’ve never actually used it before.  Not through not wanting to, just never having an opportunity.  Plus I’ve never actually been convinced of how successful it is as a technique.  Whats always concerned me is removing the sand, salt, sugar or whatever it is you choose to use.  So, this post is mostly about my adventures with this technique.

So what compelled me to use it?  Well, I want the exterior to look like its rusting.  When you see rust on car, trucks etc it generally starts at weld points, joints etc.  To replicated this I couldn’t use the sponge technique.  When you apply a sponge with paint on it, it is applied to raised surfaces.  Not internal corners or where two materials would theoretically join.  By using the sand and my applicator, I was able to ‘mask’ these joints using sand.  Hence, why I opted to explore using this technique.

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My chosen hairspray… VO5 sounded cool.  I made a small applicator out of paper to assist with more accurate placement of the sand.  By the way, I got the sand from a hardware store.  Nothing special.

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Making an applicator seemed like a good idea at the time…

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Did it work?  I think so.  However before I went hell for leather, I painted a small piece (below) and experimented with how I’d remove the sand.  Remember, I’ve actually based some of the sections of this model with craft wood.  I’ve also attached the basing material with PVA glue.  Both of these materials react poorly when exposed to moisture.

I wasn’t too concerned with the vast majority of the pieces of this kit getting wet.  They’re resin after all.  However I was concerned with the modules  This meant I had to be very careful removing the sand.

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As you can see from the two test pieces, the technique is quite affective.  The only thing I found I had to be careful of was using too much water.  This caused the paint to soften and come off.  So I found the best way was to apply a light coat of water, let it sit for a minute or two, and then with a tooth brush and wide flat paint brush, gently remove the sand.  It comes off quite easily.  Then I just gave it a quick rinse.

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After I was satisfied with how the technique was going to work with the model, I then went ahead and added the sand to the rest of the pieces then painted them their top coat.  I was really happy with how it was all coming together at this stage.

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So, as you can see this base is really looking the business.  If I’d had my time over again I would have done a few things slightly differently.  The first one being not so liberal with the sand.  It’s a very small point however there are areas where I feel I went a little over the top.  The other thing I would have done is sealed the brown coat with a clear gloss.  I think this would have assisted in allowing the sand to come off with greater ease.  I don’t know this for certain, just theorising.

So from here, I’ll be applying a clear gloss coat to the model surfaces and applying oils…  until next post!

Thanks for dropping in

John

Welcome back to another Anphelion Base update.  Things are getting pretty serious now!  The models been cleaned and assembled (years of therapy ahead over that one).  It’s been based and undercoated, then the interior was painted.  Its now time to mask the interior and begin to paint the exterior.

First up, masking

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The photos of this stage will be fairly self explanatory, so I’ll dispense with the commentary

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A pretty light on post.  I didn’t want to spend too much time describing what is essentially sticking tape to a model then spraying it.  However what I will say is that the model isn’t going to be brown.  This is the undercoat.  I’ll be using the hairspray technique as one of the weathering stages of this model.  But that will be in the next post…

Until then, thanks for dropping in

John

I’ve been waiting to tell you all about this for the LONGEST time.  Earlier this year I actually acquired an unassembled (mostly) and unpainted Anphelion Base.  For those of you that don’t know, the Anphelion Base was an extremely ambitious piece of 40k terrain that Forge World made to accompany Imperial Armour IV  – The Amphelion Project.  These kits are very very rare.  When they were released back in the early 2000’s they were over $1,500AUD to buy, and were notoriously difficult to assemble (this one lived up to that reputation)  When I say difficult to assemble, what I mean is, during assembly, most of the time you feel like smashing it to little pieces using a hammer.

So my idea for the base was to make a table that represented some sort of abandoned Adeptus Mechanicus research station, with an entrance to an underground laboratory just nearby.  I’ve been wanting to use the Forge World Imperial Strong Point  I painted for my Carcharodons for some time.  This seemed like the perfect opportunity.  It will act as the entrance to the subterranean laboratory.

Now, this series of blog post is going to be slightly different from my usual ones.  I’m actually going to include work in progress photos along with commentary.  I’m doing this for two reasons.  The first one is this is such an awesome model, I want you all to be able to live vicariously through this blog during the assembly of this amazing model.  The second reason is, I’ve not found many comprehensive blog post on the inter-webs on this model.  I’ve seen a few pics of other modellers here and there, but no ‘this is how I built and painted the Anphelion Base’.  So, in the interests of prosperity, I’ve taken it upon myself to provide the inter-webs with just such a post.

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The first step is to get the layout how I wanted it.  One thing I knew about this kit is that 1.  It was going to be mounted on MDF (Craft wood) and 2.  I was going to have to make molds of certain parts because with what I had, I couldn’t make the layout I wanted.

Lets start with the MDF base.  One thing that really irritates me about scenery mounted on MDF is the lip.  The base for the building or whatever gets cut out of MDF and thats it, just  really harsh shoulder between the board and the model base.  I didn’t want my piece to have this issue, I wanted to make sure that the edge of the MDF was made more into a ramp so that minis can balance properly, and its aesthetically  pleasing on the table.

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The first thing I did was draw outlines of all the various modules of the base on to MDF.  This included the ‘buttresses’

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I then added about 20mm around the module to allow for the ramped lip etc

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Then marked up the MDF ready for being cut out

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The halls were a much easier prospect…

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As was the intersection…

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Then it was time to cut them all out

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One problem I didn’t anticipate was the wide base of the hall going into the narrow base of the intersection.  I had to put my thinking cap on for this one…

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I ended up just making a small modification to the hall base to allow for a smooth transition between pieces.

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So now the hall goes into the module and the intersection smoothly.

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Next up with the very messy job of sanding the ramp onto the lips of all the bases.. epic job.  I wouldn’t recommend doing this unless you have a good dust extraction method and dust mask.  MDF is seriously bad stuff to breath in.  Maybe thats why no one bothers to make a better lip transition?

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Nice

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After I’d done this, I went back to all the joins and ‘aligned’ them.  Which basically involved going back to each one and making minor modifications to ensure the joints overlaped and joined smoothly.

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Just another pic of a fixed up joint

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The MDF bases of the base all organised.  This didn’t take as much time as you’d think.  The results will be well worth it in the end.

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So I also wanted some scatter terrain too.  I made a mold of the ‘containers’ so I could have a few floating around the base.  You’ll also notice the landing pad has two ramps indicated on the base.  So yeah… I’ll mold that section too.

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So I mounted the scatter terrain on MDF bases too.  I also added a few barrels etc to give it some more visual interest.

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There you go, the Anphellion base is now ready to be glued onto the MDF, then undercoated.  I don’t know if its clear in the photos but if you look closely you can see the that the layout I’ve come up with is different to the actual models that I’ve got.  So I’ll have to make molds of the pieces I need.  This will be a pretty big job too.  I won’t do a post on the mold making process as thats a series of post in its self!.  You’ll just have to believe me that it happened and I achieved the desired results.  In future posts though you’ll notice the molded sections because they’ll be white.

Ok, thats it for now, until next time.  Thanks for dropping in

John