Posts Tagged ‘Space Marines’

I’ve been wanting to make some awesome objective markers for my World Eaters army for some time now.  I got a bolt of inspiration when I was painting Angron.  On his base (as well as Fulgrims and Ferrus Manus) are dead and dying space marines.  I thought to myself that these models would make great objective markers.  However the thought of desecrating a Primarchs base was too much to contemplate (especially the $$).  However after a lot of thought I decided just to do it… and this is what I came up with

World Eaters Objective Markers

In this photo, they are still not finished, but it’ll give you a pretty good idea of where I’m going with them.  The white plates are for dice to rest on so players can indicated what mysterious objective they represent.  I actually plan on molding these and making casts of them once they’re complete.  I plan on giving them away to participants at The Emperors Legions, a 1000pt, 30k comp I’m running in March of 2014.

Thats it for now, thanks for dropping in

John

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So, that time of the year has rolled around again where I’ve made the epic journey upto Townsville for the annual ADFWGA fund raiser.  Do you remember last years post?

I’ve not really participated in that many tournaments in 2013, in fact, I’ve not even played that many games.  I’m more about 30k or social playing 40k these days.  However, the ADFWGA put on a great show, and its for a very good cause.  This year the 40k tournament was 1750pts and I took my Iron Hands.  I didn’t use the new mini dex however.

I also ran the painting workshop, which this year was focused on batch painting.  I believe we raised $500.  Also, one of the guys who attended won an airbrush set up in the raffle at the end of the comp!

So I’ll let the pictures do the talking…

ADFWGA donation

So all the models and paint for the painting tutorial were generously donated by Battle station Ipswich.  Roughly about $700 worth.  Extremely generous

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The painting workshop in full swing.  There were many skill levels and painting backgrounds represented.  Everyone learned some new skills and had a good time.  It was a seriously long day though.  I was exhausted! Having only gotten back from my trip to Europe 3 day prior didn’t help either… Next year I’ll stick to painting sides of tanks!

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The calm before the storm.  One thing I really like about the ADFWGA comps is how well they are organised.  They are by far and away the bench mark for tournaments in Australia.  No other events even come close to touching these comps.  IMG_329104

The scenery is always very high quality too.  The tables have a great admin area on them to put your army, books etc.  They even have a table to follow so you dont forget any pre-game admin, like warlord traits etc.  Very helpful, especially for people like me who don’t play that often anymore…

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As usual, the armies are all really interesting and high quality.  This one was one of the more interesting ones.  Its and Eldar Exodite army.  Tones of converting and custom work were put into this army to get it looking right.  Not only that, but the paint job was excellent too.  Sadly the owner didn’t manage to get it finished in time, so they were ineligible for a prize etc.  Pity.  Pardon my crappy iPhone photos.

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This was an army I actually played against.  I was really impressed with the paint job.  It was well thought out and skilfully executed.  I was genuinely shocked that it didn’t get a better painting score, or even a place for that matter.

Lots of nice blending and freehand work.  But yeah, Eldar.  My least favourite army to play against…IMG_329810 IMG_329911 IMG_330012

So overall I came 6th.  Which I was seriously surprised at.  I only won two games, and drew the other three.  My army list was just a very basic marine one.  I did however have A LOT of stand off fire power.  Which worked quite well actually, however I didn’t really have anything that could deliver the killing blow.  No heavy hitters that could get up into the enemies grill.

The Iron Hands also got second place for the painting comp too.  Which again, seriously surprised me.  The Iron Hands are quite an old army now, and I’ve come along way technically and creatively since I first painted them.  So to get that sort of score was pretty overwhelming.  I wish I’d actually taken the World Eaters and played them as CSM.  But I just didn’t have the time to paint what I wanted… And my Iron Hands army is MASSIVE, so lots of different choices available to me.

So overall the weekend was a great success.  The ADFWGA raised over $12,000 for Soldier on and many good games were had.  A big improvement on last years efforts, raising $10,000.

Next stop, the ANZAC Cup in April

John

Just another very quick post of a recently finished project that I’ve not had the time to photograph properly.  I really like this model, and its also great in the game too, however it has been taken down by a few very lucky shots in the few games that I have used it….

This model is often criticised for being difficult to assemble. I didn’t really have any dramas putting it together personally it just takes a little patience and a heat gun on hand as you are gluing it together.  I’ve now assembled two of these and I’m very happy with how they’ve both turned out.

I’m anxiously awaiting the release of the next book from Forge World detailing the Istvaan V Massacre…

Iron Hands Stome Eagle 1 Iron Hands Stome Eagle 2 Iron Hands Stome Eagle 3 Iron Hands Stome Eagle 4

Well, its been a long time coming but I finally got around to it.  I’ve started painting my 30k World Eaters army.  Bit late maybe, but who cares, they’re going to be bad ass.  I’ve actually been quite busy this last week or two with painting and modelling however I’ve been so focused on painting and modelling I’ve neglected to do any posts.  Plus the weather has been seriously crap here in Brisbane this last week so the light hasn’t been very conducive to taking good quality photos.  I did manage to get some pictures of my finished squad of 10 Blood Letters of Khorne and my Iron Hands Storm Eagle, however I had the wrong exposure setting on my camera and the pics turned out seriously crap.  So once the light improves here I’ll do up a post each for those two completed projects.

Anyway…  Back to the XII Legion.  So this is a pretty ambitious project for me, however instead of tackling it all in one hit, I’ve broken it down into smaller pieces to make it a bit more manageable.  I’ve actually gone and purchased over 5000pts worth of resin crack for the army, however I’m not going to attempt to paint them all at once…. I did think about it though… Plus, I’d like to enter Armies on Parade (September 28 in Australia) this year too and I figured having another Horus Heresy era army in the competition wouldn’t hurt…

Moving right along, the first lot of units on the painting table for the World Eaters are:

1.  Angron (of course),

2.  Terminator Squad,

3.  Rampager Squad,

4.  Legion Heavy Support Squad,

5.  Spartan Assault Tank (pimp mobile for the Terminators),

6.  Storm Eagle Gunship, and

7.  Contemptor Dreadnought

Heres what all that looks like in a box after I cut off all the tabs, pour point etc incase you’re wondering….

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So lets take a look at these units shall we…  By the way, the pics are pretty poor quality so please bear with me

Angron

Can I just say this model is amazing.  I know its been done to death on the interwebs but I just have to have a chop at it too (pardon the pun).  The detail is astonishing and Simon Egan well and truly exceeded everyones expectations with this model.  I won’t bang on too much about it but I’m seriously looking forward to painting this model.

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Terminator Squad

I knew very early on I wanted the squad sergeant to be based on the Tyberos model of Carcharodon fame.  This was for several reasons, the first is I really like the stance of this mini, and secondly, it has no Imperial Eagle on the breast plate.  As you may know, only the Emperors Children were allowed to have the Aquila on their breast plate, and the final reason is I like the studs on the armour and its baroque look, and well… its just a cool model and its character really suits that of the World Eaters.

This opened up an interesting can of worms for me as the terminator models I wanted to use for the actual squad are the Tartaros pattern terminator squad.  When I purchased these models, the Legion Tartaros pattern squad were not available so I had the armour I wanted, but the torsos were festooned with Aquila’s and the legs had no studs on them.  I also had a bunch of left over Tyberos models from when I did my Carcharodon army a year or two ago.  So I decided to go and make the torso from the Tyberos model the torso for the Tartaros squad. This required a fair bit of cutting, drilling and chopping but I got their in the end.  I also added studs to the legs and power fists of the models.  I’m pretty happy with the overall result.  Here are some pics, and also I’ll included a thumb nail gallery of the progress shots I take with my phone as I’m going along.  As I’ve mentioned previously I do these mostly for myself so I can remember how to I did something if I need to go back to it at some point in the future so they are not the most wonderfully framed shots.

I really like the squad sergeant (the whole squad will have the same should pads too)

 

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The squad preped and ready for undercoating

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Rampager Squad

These bad boys are the blood thirsty crazy psychopaths that have had the Butchers Nails implants. I guess they eventually went on to become Khorne Berzerkers… seems to fit.  I tried to have as many Chain Axe variants as I could for this squad and I made the squad leader out of an actual Rampager with a massive two handed Chain Axe.  I actually see these guys more as a Legion Tactical Squad that have just swapped their Bolters for Chain Weapons and Bolt pistols as opposed to a real Rampager squad, but for the sake of this post, lets just call them Rampagers.  I made sure they are all shod in MKII armour, which the XII Legion favoured.

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Legion Heavy support squad

The army needs someone to do the heavy lifting, so I thought some heavy weapons would be a good idea at this point.  So I threw in some plasma cannons.

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Spartan

This is one seriously bad ass tank.  If you haven’t read the Betrayal rule book yet, you may not know that in 30k these tanks were hard hitting, teeth pulling mo fo’s.  With a few upgrades they are practically indestructible, easily capable of delivering up to 12 Terminators to the enemies door step to wreak havoc whist along the way delivering hammer blows to the enemy.  So I decided to go balls out with this bad boy and stick practically every upgrade you can put on a Spartan on this model.  One in particular that I’ve wanted to do on a Landraider for some time is a dozer blade so this was a good opportunity to give it a shot.  This is perhaps what I am most proud of on this model, I hope it turns out ok once its all painted.  I intend on painting the interior of this model so the hull isn’t assembled yet. A few other obvious upgrades I’ve added to this model are a remote weapons platform for the multi melta and HK missile, frag assault launchers and track upgrades.  Behold

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The dozer bladeIMG_264926

Track upgrade

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Storm Eagle Gunship

Just cos they’re cool (that gap in the hulls been filled by the way)

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Assembling this kit is a real punish…

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Finally…  The Contemptor Dreadnought

So I’ve had this idea for a Contemptor for some time now that involves said Contempotor back handing a marine across the battlefield with a massive iron bar.  Yep, brutal.  It was sort of inspired by the cover of the Black Library Book Betrayer.  I wanted the base to tell a small story too…  So basically the dreadnought has been swatting marines with a random I beam that he’s found somewhere along the way.  A marine is behind some make-shift battlefield barricade frantically trying to hold off the assaulting force, and this dreadnought has just rocked up under fire and smacked this marine with massive I beam out from behind his cover.  You can see on the base spent bolter casings and an unloaded bolter on one of the drums.

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Thats it for now.  Thanks for dropping in, hope you’ve gotten something from this post.  As usual, comments welcome.

Until next time

John

 

So ever since I did the post on How to paint World Eater Space Marines I have a lot of positive feed back, in fact its been a very popular post.  One question that I’ve continually had was “how did you paint the face?” So I thought I’d do a quick tutorial on how to paint faces to a good table top standard.  Believe it or not, its not that hard and with a little patience and practice you’ll dramatically improve the presentiment of any miniature where flesh tones are present.

So lets take a look at the process.

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Step 1.

For the tutorial I’ll be using the old Citadel range of paints.  I do like the new range, however I’m buying to replace them with the new ones as I go so I’ve still got a fair few of the old range on hand.  But if you use the Citadel conversion chart if you don’t have any of the old paints you should be golden.

The paints & materials I’ve used are

  • Abaddon Black – Undercoat and detail
  • Tallarn Flesh – Base coat and component for highlights
  • Dwarf Flesh – For highlighting
  • Red Gore – A component colour for the lips
  • Ogryn Flesh – Base coat wash
  • Devlen Mud – Shading
  • White Scar – Eyes etc
  • W & N No 1 Brush
  • Marines Head – I like mounting pieces on tooth pics for ease of handling

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Step 2.  Undercoat

I’ve used Abaddon Black applied with an Air Brush, or use a spray can.  This is important and many of the small details on the face can be erased or compromised if you don’t apply the paint thinly enough.  I’m not saying it can’t be done with a brush, but it just makes your job harder if you do.

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Step 3.  Base coat

Again I’ve applied Tallarn Flesh with an air brush for the same reason that I applied Abaddon Black with an air brush, so as not to compromise any of the fine detail on the face.

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Step 4.  Wash

Using my W & N no 1 brush I applied a liberal amount of wash.  Don’t be scared to do this as you’ll find that when the medium dries (evaporates) all that will be left is the pigment in the recesses.  You want that to create definition.
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Step 5.  Re-apply the base coat

This is where you need to be mindful of a few things.  The first one is paint viscosity, and the second one is your brush condition.  Let me explain.  Where a lot of people fall down when painting flesh is that the paint has already started to dry when its being applied.  This makes the paint lumpy and has an inconsistent appearance in its application.  In some climates where the air is dry (< 30% humidity) you may need to use a wet pallet.  Or just do what I do and take a blob of paint out of the bottle (I live in a humid climate), put it on my pallet and mix in a bit of paint thinner.  This is really important, especially for skin tones, the reason is that our skin is sort of translucent and when we paint it to re-create that effect, we need to simulate this and the best way to do that is to make the paint thin.  I’ll get into more detail on this later, but for now, just make sure that your paint it thinned down a little so it flows better.

The second point you need to be aware of is your brush condition.  There are two aspects of this, the first is that your brush is set up to facilitate capillary action, and the second one is that the tip of the brush is the right shape.  Many painters don’t use their brush the way its meant to be used, and that is having a nice amount of paint on the whole brush (bristles) and then shape the brush tip so that it makes a nice fine point for painting.  A lot of guys I see dip the tip of their brush in the paint and use only that part.  This seriously limits the full capability of the brush and you are doing yourself a big disservice.  To help your brush facilitate capillary action, just make sure that before you dip it in paint (thinned down I hope) that you first dip your paint brush in some clean paint thinners first.  Remove the excess with a tissue or something then dip the paint brush in your thinned paint, using the same tissue shape the bristles so that you have a nice point.

You can now pick out the raised areas of the face with the Tallarn Flesh.  Before you do this take a few moments to consider where you’d like the paint to go by studying the face and its contours.  By having a plan of where you’d like the paint to do will dramatically improve your results.

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Step 6.  First Highlight

Mixing about 70% Tallarn Flesh with 30% Dwarf Flesh, begin highlighting the areas of the face that would naturally catch the light.  So areas like the ears, nose, chin, cheeks, brow.  Again, make sure you follow the points I make in Step 5 about paint viscosity and having your brush set up properly.  Paint viscosity is important for the next three stages.  As I mentioned before, skin is sort of translucent, so when you paint flesh tones, try and make your paint go on in very thin layers so that the edge of each layer of paint isn’t too contrasted against the previous one, and allows its colour to be blended with the previous colour that was applied.

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Step 7.  Second Highlight

Mixing about 30% Tallarn Flesh with 70% Dwarf Flesh, begin refining the highlighting of the previous areas of the face that you worked on in Step 6. Again, make sure you follow the points I make in Step 5 about paint viscosity and having your brush set up properly.

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Step 8.  Final Highlight

With straight Dwarf Flesh go and pick out the final areas where you want attention to be drawn to.  Tip of the nose, ears, brow and top of the cheeks.

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Step 9.  Lips

With a a mixture of about 60% Tallarn Flesh, and 40% Red Gore, apply a small amount to the lower lip.  This is very subtle but crucial to achieving a more realistic effect.

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Step 10.  Eye Shading

Place a small amount of Devlan Mud in each of the eye areas and a small amount under the bottom lip.  Again a subtle but crucial step.

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Step 11.  Pick out Details

Paint the actual eyes black in readiness for the white to be applied, paint around the collar, neck brace etc and the small stud on his forehead.  Highlight the collar etc as you would normally.
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Step 12.  Finished

Paint in the eyes with white, followed by a small dot of back.  This may take several attempts to get right.  Pick out the service stud with your choice of silver and finish up any other details you’d like attention paid to.
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So there you have it.  It’s doubtful that you’ll win a Golden Daemon trophy with this scheme, but it will with any luck improve the quality of your table top miniatures.

A few points to remember about painting flesh.  The first is no matter what tone of flesh you are wanting to achieve, always start with a warm flesh tone.  For example, if you look at the picture below of my Iron Hands Librarian, you’ll see he’s quite pale.  I still used Tallarn Flesh as the base colour, I just used a mixture of grey and bone to dull down the warmth of Tallarn Flesh.  This is a convention to be mindful of when painting flesh tones.  It seems that our eye is programmed to see flesh tones in a certain way and we accept simulations of flesh tones better when they have a warm base to start with.

Iron Hands Librarian

Thats me for now.  Hope you’ve found this helpful, and until next time chat later.

John Sutton, Brisbane, Qld

Thats right, you read it correctly, I’m selling something.  We’ll trying to anyways…

Its an idea I’ve been toying with for some time now so I thought I’d put it out there and see what happens.

This is an alternate version of the Space Marine Terminator Storm Shield that I made some time ago for my Iron Hands army as I was really unhappy with the ones that come with the plastic kit, so I went about making my own.  I wanted them to still use the same “design language” that the Space Marine range uses so they would fit in but wanted it to look a bit more creditable and solid looking rather than the current one.

So to test the waters I’ve listed 10 packs of 5 on eBay for $12.95AUD each that includes FREE postage within Australia for the first 10 packs sold.

The Games Workshop Terminator model is shown for scale purposes only and isn’t included.

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So what you get in a pack is 5 unpainted, unassembled polyurethane resin storm shields.  As you can see, some cleaning will be required.

Did I mention FREE POSTAGE for the first 10 sold?

I’ve got a few other ideas for after market accessories in my head, and depending on the success of these will depend on whether or not they see the light of day.  So fingers crossed.

So go to my eBay account and buy a couple so I can pay for my tertiary education and not eat 2 minute noodles all week…

Thanks for dropping in

John

Hello everyone!

Its been a while since my last post as I’ve been busy with study, life and just well, I needed to take a bit of a break to recharge my painting mojo…  it came back pretty strong on Wednesday morning and I cracked open the bunker and went on a mini painting bender and smashed out two test models for my up and coming 30k World Eaters.  This is something that I’ve been thinking of for quite some time however for some reason I couldn’t decide in my mind exactly what I wanted to do in terms of how I was going to paint them.  I had a few different ideas for the white actually, and I was torn as to which method I’d ultimately use.

So I just decided to paint one model with each method and compare and contrast the results.  So sit back and I’ll take you though what I did and how I did it blow-by-blow.  Hope you enjoy it.  By the way, if you follow my Facebook page you’ll already have seen the end results, and if you don’t follow my Facebook page, go do it now….  I was actually so pleased with how both models turned out that I posted the pictures up on my Facebook page to show them off.

So here we go….

Let me begin by giving you some idea on where my head was at before I commenced painting these two models.  White is a tricky (tint, its not a colour) to paint and the colour that is under it has a very strong influence on how we perceive it.  The look that I want to achieve with my World Eaters is one that gives the viewer the impression that they have been in, or are in combat.  So lots of grime, dints, dust and grittiness.  However I don’t want them to look like they’ve just been thrown in a washing machine with a couple of bricks either.  Lets face it, Marines would get shot at a lot, firstly because they are generally numerically inferior to their opponent and secondly, it would take a lot of fire power to drop an Astartes.  Achieving this balance is a major technical and aesthetic challenge with white.

This is why I’ve gone for experimenting with two different base colours for the models.  One has a very light grey base colour, and the other has a very light brown base colour.  The light grey model ultimately had its panel lines cut it with a black oil wash, while the light brown model had its panel lines cut in with a dark brown oil wash.  So lets take a look at the stages and I’ll walk you through it.

As some of you who’ve followed my painting updates perviously will know, I’m really big on preparation and batch painting.  I like to create a system and document it when I paint an army so that if and when I revisit it I can reproduce it, and also its a devision of labor idea, where I attempt the use my time when painting an army as economically as possible.  However I like to keep in mind the end result and in painting models fast, I don’t like to compromise the finish either…  So I spend a bit of time preparing models before painting them, so that when I paint I can achieve a standard which I consider slightly above table top standard for my rank and file models.

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So here we have stage one.  The body of the marine built, with its head, arms, backpack, shoulder armour and weapons attached or mounted on tooth picks which are held in place with polystyrene foam.  When I say mounted on what I mean is for items like the arms, backpack, head and weapon I actually drill a 2mm hole in them and just force the tooth pick into the hole.  This saves time glueing them onto the tooth pick and if I bump them and they fall off, I can just re-attach them.  Everything is cleaned up, barrels are drilled and the paint is ready.  I’ve got a clear picture in my mind of what I want the finished model to look like.

How to paint World Eater Space Marines 2

Black undercoat.  Nothing really revolutionary here. How to paint World Eater Space Marines 3

Once the black undercoat is applied I take the pieces that will be getting different treatments and fix them to separate foam plinths.  Here the bolters have been painted with Citadel Leadbelcher.    How to paint World Eater Space Marines 4

Just like the bolters I’ve segregated the shoulder armour and back packs.  One thing that isn’t shown in this picture is that they were actually all aligned to face the same direction they would when on the marine.  This will assist later when it comes time to shading them.  The base for the blue is Citadel Kantor Blue.  Once that had dried, I gave each piece a small highlight with Citadel  Caledor Sky, and then finally a even smaller highlight with 70% Caledor Sky and 30% White Scar.
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The first marine is given his black undercoat a base coat of Citadel Dawnstone.  I didn’t go over board with coverage, as I want the black to remain in recesses etc to add to the  pre-shading of the white when it eventually goes over the top.  How to paint World Eater Space Marines 6

As per the stage above except with Citadel Baneblade Brown.How to paint World Eater Space Marines 7

The first coat of white.  I created a mix of 90% Citadel White Scar and 10% Citadel Dawnstone.  This stage you want to make sure that you apply the colour with a “top down” notion in mind.  Remember that most of the time the source or light (the sun) is above the marine, so we expect to see shadows in areas where shadows would normally be created in natural light.  So lightly dust this mixture on ensuring that you keep the model pointing up as you are painting it.  Don’t go over the top either, just like the Dawnstone, you want to make sure that the coverage isn’t complete, you want some Dawnstone, and if you’ve done the job right, some of the black to still be showing through.

Once that was done, I gave the model a very light coat of just straight White Scar to make the raised areas really pop.  You need to be very delicate with the paint application at this stage otherwise you run the risk of making the white too bright and ruining the effect you were trying to achieve by using the black and grey undercoat.
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As above except with Citadel Baneblade brown.How to paint World Eater Space Marines 9

I then added chipping with a small sponge, painted in the detail and gave the models a coat of gloss varnish in preparation for oil washes.  How to paint World Eater Space Marines 10

I really like this picture for many reasons.  Mainly because it clearly demonstrates the distinct difference between the brown and grey undercoat.  I deliberately chose to use brown and black oil paint respectively on each model to further accentuate the undercoat colour coming through the white and thus further emphasise the two “looks” I was going for.  I actually think the one on the right would be a great base for a Death Guard….

Once i’d finished painting the bases, finishing up the detail etc, I gave each part a good coat of matt varnish, assembled each marine, hit it with some weathering powders and then gave it another hit with matt varnish.  Below are the pictures of the finished models.

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I’m really please with the results and very really anxious to get started on the army proper now.  I’ve decided to go with the grey undercoat after all that as I think it give a more authentic white and is in line with how I’d imagine the XII Legion to look.

What are your thoughts?

Thanks for dropping in, comments as always are very welcome.

John Sutton, Brisbane, Qld